Hydrogenated Lecithin is the product of controlled hydrogenation of Lecithin. Lecithin is a naturally occurring mixture of the diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids, linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid, phosphatidylcholine. There is a balance between the amount of phosphatidylcholine present, the melting/softening point of the hydrogenated lecithin and the difficulty in getting the product to smoothly disperse in water. As the phosphatidylcholine level goes above 50% the product becomes very difficult to work with. Hydrogenated Lecithin has all the good qualities of natural lecithin, yet its stability is greatly improved.
Lecithin can be found in all living organisms and is a predominant component of nerv- ous tissue. Lecithin is produced commercially from three different sources: egg yolk, soybean and synthetically derived from basic chemicals. It is also found in corn. Ally-Lecithsol is derived from soybean. Since in today’s world it is virtually impossible to source guaranteed non-GMO soybeans, Ally-Lecithsol likewise cannot be guaranteed to be non-GMO.
Ally-Lecithsol, hydrogenated lecithin, self-emulsifies to form stable dispersions/ colloidal solutions when adequately mixed in water between 60 – 80°C. It is capable of carrying a fairly large concentration of other oils into such stable dispersions.
It performs well in most cosmetic emulsions as a surfactant and/or co-solubilizer. It is used successfully in virtually all types of cosmetic emulsions at levels from 1 – 5% by weight. Ally-Lecithsol enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. Ally-Lecithsol improves the homeostatasis of the
skin, is non-irritating which makes it ideal for sensitive and damaged skin. Hydrogenated lecithin has been shown to increase both the total amount of percutaneous absorption and the absorption rate of anti-inflammatory materials such as stearyl glycyrrhetinate.i
Hydrogenated lecithin from soy is used primarily as an emulsifier but also has moisturizing properties. It helps to stabilize the barrier layer of the skin and restructure the skin’s natural properties. Ally-Lecithsol is ideally suited for non-greasy, mattifying emulsions with a high protective nature and water repellency, as desired for example, in the manufacture of hand creams. It is also often used as a skin softener in foot creams to make rough skin luxuriously soft.ii
Hydrogenated lecithin has been found to be safe in leave-on products when used up to 15%.iii
Because of the possibility of nitrosamine formation, hydrogenated lecithin should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed. Non- ionic emulsions or anionic emulsions that do not use amines at all are therefore preferred.
|INCI name:||Hydrogenated Lecithin|
|Origin:||Derived from soy lecithin|
|Production method:||Full hydrogenation of natural soy lecithin|
|Microbiology:||Total bacteria count: ≤100cfu/g Total yeast and mold: ≤100cfu/g Pathogens: none detected|
|Shelf life:||Unopened,12 months from date of manufacture|
|Storage:||Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight|
(Not to be used as specifications)
|Appearance||White to pale yellowish powder|
|Acid value||≤ 40|
|Iodine value||≤ 10|
|Loss on drying||≤ 2.0%|
|Residue on ignition||≤ 9.0%|
|Heavy metals||≤ 20ppm|
|Acetone soluble||≤ 5.0%|
|Xylene soluble||≤ 0.30%|
|Phosphatidylcholine||26 – 34%|
i C Puglia, L Rizza, A Offerta, F Gasparri, V Giannini, F Bonina. Formulation strategies to modulate the topical delivery of anti-inflammatory compounds. Journal of Cosmetic Science 64, 10/22/2014
ii H Käfer. Natural Cosmetic Raw Materials, Linz, Freya Verlag, 3rd Edition 2012
iii Z Fiume. Final report on the safety assessment of Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:21-45.