Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP
We’re introducing our very own brand of ethyl palmate as part of AllyOrganic’s commitment to bringing natural and organic products to manufacturers and users. Get to know more about this wonder product’s makings, uses, and formulations in this article.
What is Ethyl Palmate?
Ethyl palmate is an organic compound derived from ethyl alcohol and the fatty acids of a tropical forest palm native to Africa (elaeis guineensis). When grown in plantations, it produces 3–8 times more oil from a given area. In the personal care industry, ethyl palmate serves multiple functions, but primarily, as a natural solubilizer and co-solubilizer for ingredients.
What is Certified Organic AllyEster EP?
Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP (ethyl palmate) is the next-generation solubilizer/co-solubilizer in the market. It generally functions as an emollient, re-fatting agent, and moisturizing ingredient.
How is it Made?
Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP is produced by esterifying the entire free fatty acid content of the outer oily flesh (pericarp) of the fruit of the African palm oil (elais guineensis). We ensure that everything used to produce AllyEster™ EP—from the palm oil and ethyl alcohol used to esterify the oil, down to the esterification process—is certified organic.
The fatty acid composition of palm oil varies over a modest range depending on many factors, including soil conditions and composition; cover plants used before planting the palm; proper culling of the developing palms; and protection against copper deficiency, rainfall, sunlight, and minimum temperature.
African oil palm, Elaeis guineensis
Fruit of the Elaeis guineensis
Typical Fatty Acid Composition of Palm Oil:
|Carbon number : unsaturated bonds||Common name||% Range|
|12:0||Lauric acid||0.1 – 1.00|
|14:0||Myristic acid||0.9 – 1.50|
|16:0||Palmitic acid||41.8 – 46.8|
|16:1||Palmitoleic acid||0.1 – 0.30|
|18:0||Stearic acid||4.2 – 5.10|
|18:1||Oleic acid||37.3 – 40.8|
|18:2||Linoleic acid||9.1 – 11.0|
|18:3||Linoleic acid||0.0 – 0.60|
|20:0||Arachidic acid||0.2 – 0.70|
Typical Ester Composition of AllyEster™ EP:
(Not for specification purposes)
|CAS No.||Ester||% Range|
|106-33-2||Ethyl Laurate||0.05 – 0.70|
|124-06-1||Ethyl Myristate||0.50 – 2.50|
|628-97-7||Ethyl Palmitate||35.0 – 49.0|
|111-61-5||Ethyl Linoleate||6.50 – 11.0|
|111-62-6||Ethyl Oleate||25.0 – 42.0|
|544-35-4||Ethyl Stearate||2.50 – 5.00|
Formulation of AllyEster™ EP
A potent ingredient, AllyEster™ EP does not exhibit any incompatibilities with virtually all cosmetic formulary ingredients. It incorporates easily into cosmetic and beauty products like creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners, body washes, moisturizers, lipsticks, lip balms, foundations, and sun care products.
A liquid at room temperature, AllyEster™ EP is typically used from 1–25% by weight depending on the type of product. It is highly substantive and has excellent absorbency on the skin, greatly enhancing the character of other formula ingredients in the stratum corneum. It can also provide a reservoir for other ingredients, keeping them in intimate contact with the skin for long periods of time.
In many products, AllyEster™ EP imparts a lustrous shine even when used at low levels. Thanks to AllyEster™ EP’s non-aggressive diluent and/or solvent for other esters, natural and synthetic oils, and petrolatum waxes, you can reduce and eliminate tackiness and can help provide “remove-ability” for many strong adhesives and fixatives.
General Benefits of Using AllyEster™ EP
Thanks to AllyEster™ EP, we’re handing the market a better, safer, and more sustainable way of formulating products. Below we outline the general advantages of using this wonder ingredient:
- Hypoallergenic. Since the level of residual proteinaceous material in refined, bleached, and deodorized vegetable oils is typically zero percent, the allergenic potential of Ethyl palmate is extremely low; hence, it is considered non-allergenic.
- Extremely versatile ester. Due to its formulary effects and broad characteristics, AllyEster™ EP, it can stand on its own as a principal formulating ingredient as well as be used to replace a multitude of ingredients that are often more expensive.
- High-quality emollient. AllyEster™ EP is an excellent and elegant moisturizer that leaves the skin feeling fine and silky.
- Easily absorbed. AllyEster™ EP is rapidly absorbed into the skin and leaves the skin silky, dry, soft, and flexible.
We’re providing you with further insights on how AllyEster™ EP works with multiple personal care products below.
AllyEster™ EP In Creams and Lotions and Emulsions in General:
- AllyEster™ EP can be used to replace most liquid cosmetic esters, except those that are very ‘heavy’, on a 1-to-1 basis.
- It has a better, elegant, and lighter ‘feel’ than other esters without being “squeaky”.
- It can enhance the feel of products without requiring reformulation when replacing 10-15% of a solid ester already present in a product.
- It emulsifies easily using all conventional emulsifying systems.
- Most vegetable waxes are miscible in AllyEster™ EP, enhancing the feel of the waxes and making processing significantly easier.
- AllyEster™ EP is compatible with most silicone emulsion systems.
AllyEster™ EP In Makeup:
- AllyEster™ EP provides good slip, making the application of pigmented products smoother and easier. With the smooth application, products left behind a more substantive product.
- AllyEster™ EP is an excellent emollient and ‘pigment wetter’ in lipsticks. It provides extra shine, slips, and a lighter feel on the lips.
- AllyEster™ EP acts as an excellent solubilizer for virtually all vegetable waxes.
- AllyEster™ EP reduces or eliminates the tackiness caused by many of the film-formers commonly used in lipsticks that leave behind a more substantive film.
- AllyEster™ EP can be the base of a superior binder for pressed powders, providing better ‘blendability’, especially for cream-powder products.
- Used at low levels in eyeshadow, AllyEster™ EP can make application easier and smoother even in products with high levels of film-formers.
- In makeup removers, AllyEster™ EP can provide an extra dimension of solubilization that helps remove products that do not yield easily to most removers.
Note: AllyEster™ EP is not recommended in mascara where it might lead to transfer to the surrounding skin before the product dries thoroughly.
AllyEster™ EP in Bath Products:
- 5-8% AllyEster™ EP will make a blooming bath oil feel less oily and more elegant, while often providing just enough extra solubilization to allow the use of a fragrance that would otherwise be incompatible.
- Just a little AllyEster™ EP can help a body wash leaves behind an elegant and moisturized feeling.
AllyEster™ EP In Hair Care:
- AllyEster™ EP makes combing easier, delivers extra shine, and is never sticky.
- In hairsprays, it is compatible with ethyl alcohol and all conventional film formers; just a little delivers excellent shine without being tacky.
- In shampoos and conditioners too, it provides better, longer-lasting shine.
AllyEster™ EP in Other Products:
- Pre-electric shave: Low levels of AllyEster™ EP provides a smoother, more comfortable shave with less razor drag.
- In shave creams, AllyEster™ EP lubricates for a smoother shave that rinses clean.
- AllyEster™ EP delivers easier application in both antiperspirants and deodorants when used in any of the conventional bases at 1 to 3 percent.
- When used at low levels in cosmetic pencils, AllyEster™ EP helps pigment wetting and provides a smoother, more uniform application.
- In fragrance and fragranced products, AllyEster™ EP can provide good co-solubilization for difficult to incorporate fragrance oils and other fragrance ingredients.
- AllyEster™ EP can replace other, heavier esters in conventional skin perfumes, colognes, and sachets leaving a much less oily final feel.
- For jar-lit candles, AllyEster™ EP offers several advantages. It burns cleanly, does not cause ‘wick blossom’, and improves fragrance lift. It serves to soften most wax bases to help a jar-lit candle to adhere uniformly to the container providing a better aesthetic appearance.
- AllyEster™ EP is an excellent solubilizer/co-solubilizer for most fragrance oils that are usually incompatible with paraffin and microcrystalline waxes.
- In body oils and personal lubricants, AllyEster™ EP helps the product feel less oily while maintaining excellent slip.
Note: AllyEster™ EP is not recommended for free-standing candles.
The following types of products containing ethyl palmate have been successfully marketed:
- Acne Treatment Kit
- Anti-Aging Products
- Body Oil
- Cream-Powder Foundation
- Eye Cream
- Facial Cleanser
- Facial Moisturizer
- Fragrance & Fragrance
- Hair Spray
- Hair Treatment
- Hand Sanitizer
- Lip Gloss
- Moisturizer with SPF
- Powder Hair Therapy Shampoo
- Styling Gel
AllyEster™ EP in Nanoemulsions
Among its many uses, AllyEster™ EP is also employed in making nanoemulsions. Below is a general method for producing nanoemulsions using AllyEster™ EP:
- Dissolve oil-soluble actives, sunscreens, and butters in AllyEster™ EP. Heat to 50°C if needed to achieve a uniform smooth liquid. (Phase A)
- Add an equal weight of Ally-Lecithsol to Phase A. Mix until all the lecithin is dissolved while heating to 50°C (Phase B)
- Add water-soluble active ingredients to the water Phase (B) with adequate mixing.
- Heat water phase to 50°C
- Add Phase A at 50°C slowly to Phase B under high shear. Mix under high shear until uniformly smooth.
- Add 1-2% Ally-Lecithsol and begin to cool down.
- Add 2% of a 50% solution of Certified Organic Preservative BIOSECUR 160 (AE) at or below 40°C.
- Generally, use 1% Biosecur preservative based on the biological challenge. 1 percent is adequate but each formula is unique and must be tested to identify the appropriate level required. Certified Organic preservative BIOSECUR 160 is Certified Organic, NOP, EEC, water-soluble, GRAS, and edible.
- AllyEster™ EP is 100% plant-derived and, therefore, has a naturally occurring faint floral odor at ambient temperature. The level is proportional to the temperature, and restoration to ambient temperature removes the floral odor.
AllyOrganics, Inc. can also supply and recommend fragrances that neutralize the odor during the heating process without affecting the final formulation.
AllyEster™ EP in Cyclomethicone Replacement:
AllyEster™ EP can be used to mimic the tactile nature of Cyclomethicone in gelled products, particularly, anhydrous gelled (AE) products. AllyOrganics, Inc. offers a unique gelling agent, and while AE gelling agent 51 is not certified organic, the formula can still qualify as organic when used at less than 5% in a formula.
The gelling agent is used by dispersing the gelling agent in AllyEster™ EP and slowly raising the temperature to 50°-70°C. When the liquid is clear, mix for an additional 10 minutes at a steady temperature, then remove the mixer and allow cooling without stirring. It’s possible to experiment with various additions to the AllyEster™ EP prior to gelling to achieve an anhydrous delivery system or final product.
Typical Fatty Acid Composition of Palm Oil:
|Ingredient||Weight %||Weight %|
|Sodium Hydroxide 30% aqueous||1.00||1.00|
|B||AllyEster™ EP (Certified Organic Ethyl Palmate) [Allyson]||3.50||----|
|Stearic Acid XXX||2.50||2.50|
|Rosamox (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus|
officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract )[Kemin]
|Optiphen (Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) [Ashland]||1.00||1.00|
|Ecobiofluid Pomegranate (Punica Granatum Fruit Juice)||0.50||0.50|
|Ecobiofluid Pomegranate (Punica Granatum Fruit Juice)||0.50||0.50|
Stability: Both formulas are stable for one month at room temperature and one month at 45°C.
Organoleptic properties: The formula with AllyEster™ EP is somewhat glossier and slightly whiter. The AllyEster™ EP product has a more elegant, silkier feel with excellent slip and playtime. This difference is more pronounced after one month. There is no perceivable difference in odor.
|Product Name:||Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP|
|INCI name:||Ethyl Palmate|
|Production method:||Natural, plantation grown, certified organic palm oil esterified with|
certified organic ethyl alcohol.
|Compliance:||This product complies with the regulations of the US National Organic Program. This product is kosher, vegan, lacto vegetarian,ovo lacto vegetarian, halal, and “GMO” free.AllyEster™ EP is a non-primary irritant(RIPT) and a non-primary sensitizer (occlusive patch)|
|Microbiology:||Total bacteria count: <100cfu/g|
Total yeast and mold: <10cfu/g
Pathogens: none detected
|Shelf life:||Unopened,12 months from date of manufacture|
|Storage:||Store in original container at 40 – 80°F (4.4 – 26.6°C). Protect from|
prolonged exposure to light, heat, air and moisture.
D Goodman, Safflower: Utilization and significance in nutrition and allergy. Journal of Allergy 35, 38-42, 1964. doi.org/10.1016/0021-8707(64)90047-4
Y Basiron. Palm Oil. Bailey’s Industrial Oil & Fat Products 5th Ed., Y Hui, editor; 1996, vol.2, pp.271-376